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94 camaro wheel filment

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Offline nighthawk


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Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 11:49 pm

Posts: 157

Location: San Jon N.M.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 8:03 pm   Post subject: 94 camaro wheel filment   

I got and 1994 camaro and want to put 15 inch wheel on it. I would like 15x10 on rear and 15x4 on the front and the backspacing is got me confussed. Ive been offered two or three sets of weld stars but everyone saying it comes with spacers and i dont like the thought of using spacer because you can twist the studs. I think i should have around 5.5 inch of back spacing on the rear i think but im lost on the front wheels. So if anyone can put some lite on the subject for i would be greatful. Because i would hate to buy and they dont fit. Thanks for takin the time to read my post.

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Offline olftboy


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Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:01 pm

Posts: 321

Location: Amarillo

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:29 pm   Post subject: Re: 94 camaro wheel filment   

Once again, just a c/p from someone else vastly more knowledgable than myself..... This is Brandon's work. I believe this has all the info you need. Good luck!!!

For a direct link to the article >>>

- Weld Racing Wheel Information for LS1 F-bodies
In order to get that sixty foot time you're looking for sometimes a sticky tire is needed. The best solution is to run a 15 inch wheel to allow for more sidewall on the tire. There are several choices for drag wheels. Bogart is definitely the number one choice because their custom fit wheels require little to no grinding at all on the brake calipers and they look great. For us economy shoppers, Centerline is a popular choice with their Convo Pro and Telstar. The Convo Pro wheel with an 8.5 inch width is only available in a 5 inch backspacing , so they tend to stick out a bit much in my opinion. The Telstar is available with a 5.5 inch backspacing when you opt for the 8 inch width. If you want a 10 inch wide wheel, Centerline is not a viable option unless you have a narrowed rear end. The 10 inch wide Centerlines are only available in a 5 inch backspacing. Stock F-body backspacing is 6.25-6.75 inches depending on model year. Generally a 5.5 inch backspaing on an 8 inch wide rim is acceptable. 10 inch wide rims need to be closer to 7.5 inches of backspacing for proper fitament. Considering cost, weight and selection, Weld Racing wheels are a better choice when compared to Centerlines. The focus of our discussion will now turn to Weld Racing Prostars and Draglites.

Which Weld wheels do I choose?

F-bodies have a 5 x 4.75" bolt pattern. For a 15 x 10 wheel, a 7.5" backspacing is recommended. For a 15 x 8 wheel, a 5.5" backspacing is recommended. 15 x 3.5 with a 1.75" backspacing works well up front. Aesthetics is purely in the eye of the beholder. The Draglite and Prostar are both good looking wheels so this can sometimes be the toughest decision.

What else do I need?

Due to the lug-centric design of these wheels, a shank style lug nut is required. You will need a lug nut that meets these requirements: 12mm x 1.5 thread size, 1.300 - 1.380 in shank length, and a 0.679 - 0.687 in shank diameter.

Here are some part numbers from Summit Racing (" onclick=";return false;" onclick=";return false;)

Summit Racing, open ended: SUM-753064
Summit Racing, close ended: SUM-753045
Hard launches and burnouts can take their toll on wheel studs. I highly recommend ARP wheel studs (ARP-100-7708) for the rear regardless of whether you use spacers or not. These studs are also longer than stock, so you get more spins with the lug nuts for added safety. You must remove the axles to install the studs. A drawback of longer studs occur when using "daily driver" or stock wheels because the factory lug nut covers will not fit over the ARP studs. If you have aftermarket wheels, your acorn style lug nut will bottom out over the studs preventing proper tightening. A solution to this problem is either open ended lug nuts or longer close ended. I'm currently using stock lug nuts without a cover on my Boyd Coddingtons. It's ugly, but the 1.5 inch acorn style lug nuts just don't cut it.

Spacers are not a requirement and are generally not recommended due to stress issues. It is much like the Surgeon General's warning on a cigarette pack, so consider yourself warned. However, the use of spacers will greatly cut down on grinding. Mr. Gasket 5/16" spacers (MRG-2371) are widely used. If you run spacers in the front with the 15 x 3.5 Weld, no grinding is required in most cases. When using spacers in the front, install longer wheel studs. ARP studs work great here also.

How do I make them fit?

As stated earlier, typically the front runners require no caliper grinding if spacers are used. The rear calipers need grinding regardless of spacer use. Spacers do cut down on the amount of grinding. Bring out the angle grinder if you have one. If you're a college student away from home and any tools, use a file and drum sander. My experience was worse than others with the tools I had. Start by removing the large notch in the middle of the caliper. Most of the grinding is done at the top and bottom of the caliper brackets. The goal is to create a smooth continuous radius out of the caliper. Don't go crazy and remove too much material. Remember to test fit the wheels often to see where the grinding is needed. Some use spray paint or grease to see where the wheel is hitting. When you are satisfied with the fit, torque down the wheels and go for a test drive. Listen for any strange sounds and allow the calipers to heat up because they will expand. Remove the wheels and check for any markings suggesting interference with the calipers. Those with 15 x 8 wheels have the least amount of grinding to do. Those that opted for the wider 15 x 10s will have a little more grinding, plus you will need to "clearance" the inner fender so the wheel and tire do not rub.

The following pictures will give you an idea of what needs to be done.


With a few coats of paint, it looks like it came from the factory that way.


How do I install new wheel studs?

In order to install new wheel studs the axles must be removed. First support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the wheel and tire. Remove the brake caliper and use a zip tie to support it by the coil springs. Remove the rotor. Then remove the rear cover. Remove the pinion gearshaft lock bolt. It is a small bolt towards the bottom of the carrier below the spider gears, denoted by the number 5 in the diagram. The gearshaft lock will slide out after the retaining bolt is removed. Then push in the axle and remove the c-clip. This is easily done with the help of a pen magnet. Carefully pull out the axle. With the axles removed use a large hammer to drive out the old studs. To install the new studs I used an air ratchet and some washers to pull the stud through with the lug nut. Reverse the process to install the axles. Remember to use a new rear cover gasket and to fill it with oil.


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